Sunday, April 27, 2008

Last day in Puerto part 2 starring Charles Norris and Steven Segal

This time I think it`s for real, but I`m done stressing about where and when. For now it`s back to the beautiful wave that took my world class wave virginity, this time by bus and boat. Might stay a whole week there, as it looks like a pretty hearty swell is coming on Thursday and lasting into the weekend. It`s a funny thing, waiting around for swell to arrive so that you can go score the wave just outside of town. On the one hand, I`ve been able to surf a pretty manageable Zicatela with a couple really, really good sunset sessions that saw flawless peaks breaking over complete glass. On the other hand, it`s hard not to feel like my limited time to see this amazing part of the world is passing by while I`m sitting on a thumb chair. I`ve learned a lot, regardless, and hopefully we get some really good face time next week. I`ve got a feeling that the waves we are about to get will be worth all the simmering we`ve been doing in this pressure cooker. It is really goddamn hot right now.

With a new guitar in hand, thanks to Raoul the German hulk`s incredible string of bad luck which included a mugging, a deep laceration, and a cataclysmic episode involving the hostel`s high velocity ceiling fan and my first guitar, I am off to re-discover paradise with a new crew of international wanderers. I`ve got travel chess, a new book from Robbie the Irishman entitled Love in the Time of Cholera, and a journal that is half empty. The green is cheap, and the thrills are cheaper; sails up!

1 comment:

oakley said...

Bruce! Good to hear all this stuff. Keep it up, hash out the new guitar, and try posting some nudie surfing pics. We on the internet blog community would like it. :) ps - i read that book, Magical realism? seems like your alley.